Friday, May 21, 2010

Stone Party


It's a funny thing, designing with gemstones. It becomes so serious. These tiny treasures are all packed in their own individual little bags, labelled and organized. It makes it difficult when you have to look at only one stone at a time so that they don't get all confused and disorganized. The issue of organization makes these pictures a glimpse of a rare event in the studio.
Stone party! Every once and a while, lots of the stones need to come out to play together to find their soul-mates. Carnelian mingles with turquoise next to sodalite and serephinite, and suddenly, colko agate falls in love with citrine, while rose quartz and spiderweb obsidian are making out in the corner. Some stones will leave the party alone, rouge individuals who wish for no company. The others will be paired and grouped with bright sparkling accents for the second design stage: sketching.

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Fashion/Style/Bridal event

SPRING SOIREE IN THE CITY
Sunday, April 25th, 2010 - 2-6pm
Sponsored & hosted by: TRUST
249 Arch Street
Philadelphia, PA 19106

Soirée in the City is Philadelphia’s Premier Bridal & Style Event. Philadelphia brides, wedding and party planners, fashionistas and event planners rejoice: On Sunday, April 25th [2-6pm] Soirée in the City will feature the best in beauty, fashion, event décor and style at Trust, the most beautiful gallery & event space in Old City.

Bringing together the best of the industry, Soirée in the City will host a roster of high-end
vendors—from photographers and fashion designers to catering and gifts—all in one place. The
goal is to make preparation for the big day as seamless as possible, while at the same time helping to craft individual events that will be exceptional standouts for years to come.

“Soirée in the City was created as an alternative to the traditional bridal show. The emphasis of
this event is fashion elegance and style—everything that contributes to the overall look and
atmosphere of a celebration,” says Soirée founder organizer, Laura Eaton.

Attendees will be treated to complimentary cocktails, hors d’oeuvres and desserts. The event is complete with a goodie bag and visit to the decadent Beauty Lounge, staffed by Béke Beau makeup artist and Tierra Mia Organic Nail Spa, all included with admission.

“This event isn’t just for brides,” continues Eaton. “Fashion, beauty and other creative vendors
round out Soirée in the City, making it accessible to anyone planning a party or looking for stylish
event options.”

Tickets are $15. To purchase tickets and view a complete list of participants, visit
www.soireeinthecity.com/blog.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Dovetail Artisans




Dovetail artisans is a gift shop/ gallery carrying primarily items handmade in North America. As my new motto is "Buy local, Buy Handmade." It is my new favorite stop for all kinds of baby and wedding gifts ('tis the season) or just shopping for a special item for myself. It has been a gift shop for many years, but was recently sold to Elayne Aion who renamed and remodeled the store with a great new look and new merchandise. I will be bringing my whole collection of jewelry out to Glenside for first friday May 7th from 6-8:30. See the website: www.thedovetailarisans.com for directions and more info.





Layne Design's spring poetry series of pendants and earrings are now available at Dovetail:

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Sunday, March 28, 2010

Studio Tour Part 5: Does Love for Torches make me a Pyromaniac?

This is my trusty little workhorse. We have a relationship. I mean, you have to really. At first he was a little wishy-washy...afraid of the commitment, you know. But now, we are so steady and happy together.

Ok, so all kidding aside, I had to wrangle this one. I know it sounds funny, but setting up a torch is a big deal, especially when your roomate is watching you hook up a propane tank in the corner of your bedroom in a tiny second floor Philadelphia apartment. "Is that safe?" She'll ask. Probably not, you think while wrenching away at the thing.

The thing is, I knew that I was taking this jewelry thing seriously from early on, so I didn't waste any time or money on the smaller, hobby version of a torch, and I can't tell you much about them. I went straight for the trusty standby that was the do-it-all tool in the busy shop of my first apprenticeship: Hoke, oxy-propane.

Hoke is the brand name of this torch, quickly recognizable by the front facing dual knobs and the quick change tips: The brass ones come standard, but require a wrench to change out. A set of quick change adapters giving the flame a quick and versatile range of size.
It was a clear choice, but not an easy one. I had to buy hoses, fuel valve regulators and an oxygen tank at a welding shop. I then had to go to a hardware store for a propane grill tank and an over-sized wrench.

As you picture me taking a wrench to a propane tank in my apartment bedroom, you may be asking the same question as my roommate. Is that safe? My answer is that no, it probably isn't safe to put a propane tank in your bedroom. It is not advised to keep a flammable fuel tank indoors. Why, then? because I was bound and determined to gain the skills of a serious jeweler. How did I avoid getting kicked out of my apartment? I may have put the laundry pile over the tanks when the landlord was around. Is that safe? definitely not.

After successfully tightening the hose to the regulators and the regulators to the tanks with a temendous wrench, I was feeling like Rosie the Riviter. After checking for leaks by applying soapy water and looking for air bubbles, it was the moment of truth. Time to light this thing.

It worked....kind of. the flame would light, but the knobs seemed almost squishy. They didn't stay in place. It wasn't that they were uber-sensitive. They would slowly fall back after being carefully placed. The trouble here is pretty serious. When too much oxygen is present, the flame becomes intense, hissing, and eventually blows out the flame with a startling pop of pressure in the torch tip.

Oh, What to do! the manufacturer says it's fine, just loosen the knob really far and put it back. A few metal-head friends took a look and had no bright ideas. I was resigned to the thought that it needed to be "broken in" All torches that I have used have seemed finicky at first. They are difficult to light and control. Fire is difficult to light and control.

And so it was. I may have had nightmares about leaving a tank on or a line unbled, but I learned by living with my torch about respecting its danger, and standing up to it. I never spoke much about the trouble it gave me, just kept on trying, trusted myself to take care of it properly, and remember always to shut down all parts.

Now, 6 years later, it works like a charm. I don't know if I broke it in, or if it broke me in, but we live in harmony, my torch and I. You'll be happy to know that we have a studio together now.
It has accomplished the promised versatility. It holds a flame that can melt a hunk of metal in a crucible to pour into an ingot. >>>>>>
Or a flame of less than an inch in length for joining tiny, delicate, gold parts.
Now, I am in torch-love and I would never trade it in for another, but that's not to say I wouldn't buy a bigger one just to have fun with.

Please research thoroughly any decisions to setup for a torch in your workspace. Follow manufacturer's instructions. This is not intended as an instructional guide for torches.

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Studio Tour Part 4: Metal Forming

These are some of my favorite things: dapping blocks, anvils, mandrels and chasing tools....and my pink countertop....It makes me feel like a lady, even if I am wearing saftey gear while pounding out some metal.
The anvil on the left is a very classically Looney Toons looking one, but I probably use it less than the much smaller one to the right of it. The large wooden cutting board helps absorb some of the reverberation from hammering, but it needs bolted down because it jumps all over the place when I'm hammering heavy metal. It is a temporary solution until I can convince enough of my friends to help me move my 4x4 foot solid maple butchers block....it makes a great surface for hammering, but it weighs a TON!

Below the counter-top pictured above, I have a shelf which doubles as a hammer rack. It was really simple to drill large holes in a row to keep the hammers organized. It is good to store your hammers in a rack....keeping then piled up in a box can damage the hammer heads if they clang into each other when you put them away.

Tool storage is one of the things that you really need to customize on your own to keep everything handy. There are some racks and fixtures available for craftsmen, but they are sometimes overpriced, and frequently do not reach your very specific needs.

The rolling mill pictured is not a fancy brand name, I bought it on Ebay, and it was the best deal I could find after price comparing for weeks. It does a great job. The flat steel rollers were in perfect condition, and the progression of the wire slots is comfortably gradual. It even has some 1/2 round wire slots on the right end.

The other tool pictured is a jump ring winder that I upcycled out of an old hand cranked grinding wheel....I just took off the wheel and welded a jacob's chuck to the axis.
A graduated set of round steel mandrels is used to wind the jump rings on. They are a little expensive, but after trying to cut jump rings off of a wooden dowel, the price of the steel mandrels didn't seem so bad anymore.

Monday, March 15, 2010

Studio Tour Part 3: Polishing

Polishing is integral to how I create jewelry. I like the look of a polished piece, and it is sometimes difficult to achieve. Often, items that are finished with a high polish are polished many times during the building process. Each of the parts are often polished before they are attached together. In this way, tiny spaces that are made from the attachment are pre-polished underneath, yet every time something is soldered to the piece, some of the shine is lost, and the whole piece may need polished again! This is especially true when working in silver as opposed to gold, which keeps it's shine better (not perfectly) through the soldering process.
This is the polishing area of my shop. Keeping it clean from the dust that flies when polishing is important to continuously achieving a serious shine. A powerful dust collector is very helpful in this matter, but even with one of these, there are particles that collect on the countertop. I keep a dustpan and brush close by to clean up before and after working here. That dust has metal in it, so I keep a bucket underneath to collect the dust for refining.
The wheels for each grit abrasive are kept in baskets with their respective compounds. Keep lots of fresh wheels handy. If items are not cleaned thoroughly between tripoli and rouge, they will contaminate a rouge wheel quickly. It is also a good idea to keep separate wheels for different metals.
Because I do a lot of polishing, I have started to wear gloves. They are similar to nitrile gloves, and simply tear away if caught in a wheel. I have heard a few conflicting philosophies on this matter. I have seen folks wearing nitrile or even heavier gloves while polishing. I have heard others say that it is dangerous to wear gloves while polishing because they may get caught in the wheel and cause injury to your hands. I am interested in any thoughts on this matter. As a teacher, I am uncertain what to tell my students about this as well.
My aloe plant happens to be in this picture, so I have to make note of it. I have had this big guy since he was just a cutting from another plant, and he loves it in my shop. I think my steam cleaner gives him the perfect level of humidity...lol. No jewelry studio is complete without an aloe plant. It is good Feng Shui to share your workspace with healthy plants :)